This however did not mean that I wanted to indulge only in touristy activities. I did want to show my sweet friend the best Florence could offer but also sprinkle in some hidden gems for us to experience together, far away from the crowds of tourists and the loud life that is one of the most visited cities in Italy.
In this blog post, I will share my secret holiday spots, the quiet and undiscovered gems in and near Florence you should not miss out on, and the foods and drinks you should taste while on holiday in Italy!
A small restaurant in Milan, off the beaten path - Saporimaestri
I knew we would be arriving in Milan around 2 o’clock and as soon as our airplane landed, I was already making a reservation for that afternoon for a small restaurant, off the beaten path, trying to find a place which is not aimed at tourists. I don’t really have a problem with touristy places as I am one as well, but let’s be honest, there always is a price and quality difference when it comes to touristy restaurants and regular ones, especially in Italy!
So I found Saporimaestri, located in Via Maestri Campionesi, 4, and right after we found our hotel and dumped our travel luggage at the first spot we could find in our rooms we were on our way. The plan was to get a cocktail, look at the Milano Duomo, get to the restaurant and on our way back walk around Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II shopping gallery while enjoying an ice cream. Simple, right? Whatever could go wrong?
First of all, I broke the one rule I have regarding traveling in May in Europe: always have a light coat with you. We left our coats in our hotel rooms because we were tired of always having something in our hands, weighing us down. This is a mistake you should never make, fellow traveler, because yes, the Duomo was magnificent, gorgeous, and as stark white as I remembered it to be, but the cold wind that was starting to blow was yucking my yum just a little bit, but more on this later.
One of the best parts of choosing a restaurant that was a little way off from the Duomo (about 25 minutes walking distance) was having the chance to truly observe the lives of the locals and see buildings we wouldn’t have seen otherwise. This way, we strolled past the eerie Palazzo di Giustizia (Court of Milan) and instantly felt guilty even for existing, and we also walked next to some gorgeous museums, parks, and lush greenery in the middle of the city.
Saporimaestri did not disappoint, I had the artichoke ravioli with eggplants, while my friend opted for the calamarata pasta with tuna, and we were so glad to be tasting real Italian ingredients, created with precisions and a love for culinary art.
While walking back to our hotel, our decision of not having our coats with us started to seem like a really bad move, as clouds were gathering and it was thundering. Ignoring the facts, we decided to get our ice cream after all at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele and did some people watching while listening to a lady sing opera, so at the exact moment we stepped outside it started pouring, but we walked home anyway, laughing at ourselves and our questionable decisions.
Eating the best not-so-hidden sandwich in Florence and almost getting lost in the Uffizi Gallery
The next day was a Saturday and we not only had train tickets to Florence but also tickets to the Uffizi Gallery. It is important to note, that if you buy tickets online for the Uffizi, or any other museum in Florence for that matter, that is not your final entrance ticket. It is very important to go to the information desk at a timely manner (hours before your entrance time) and ask them where to exchange your online purchase for a real ticket.
After a train ride from Milan to Florence, we did just that, and fortunately, we only had to walk to the next street to get our physical tickets. Here, I learned something wonderful! I asked the kind lady who gave us our tickets why I couldn’t book Boboli Gaden tickets and Palazzo Pitti tickets for the next day, which was a Sunday, She smiled and told us that every first Sunday of the month, every single museum is free. Keep this in mind while planning your next visit to Italy, because a total of 485 museums throughout the country open their doors for free each month, besides the many festivals and open air activities the country has to offer during summer months.
This doesn’t mean that it’s a free for all and you can walk in all willy-nilly, you still have to stand in line for your ticket and then stand in line to get in the museum but the ticket will be free of charge.
So after we got our real ticket, we still had some hours to pass, and thus we decided to check out the famous sandwich of Florence at All' Antico Vinaio. We got there pretty fast from the ticket office but what awaited us can’t be described in words. There were around 300 people standing in line for a sandwich. I am a food-motivated person but somehow that line managed to overstep my boundaries and we decided to go to another, lesser-known sandwich spot that I have tried in the past, located on Piazza della Signori, called Dal Vinaio. Here the line was significantly shorter, but I am somehow 100% sure we got the better deal. I got a Signoria sandwich, made out of focaccia, mortadella, ricotta cheese and pesto genovese. We sat down on the steps under the shade of ancient figures and statues and enjoyed one of the best and freshest focaccia sandwiches of our lives.
As the hours seemed to pass faster in Tuscany than anywhere else in the world, we soon found ourselves hurrying towards the Uffizi Gallery. It was a wonderful experience but we still managed to get lost on the upper floor, even if it’s a simple U-shaped corridor. First of all, we found out that you have to be extra attentive to what the small writing says in front of every room. There is no large neon sign pointing towards Boticcelli’s Venus, it is simply a room called Botticelli, Renaissance which at first we absolutely missed because there was a line of people standing in front of a door and we couldn’t see what they were looking at, we thought for sure that was the Botticelli room and fortunately did not stand in line for the second time that day and rather looked at other exhibits and upon returning there we found out everyone was just peeking into a room and the Botticellis were next door. So, don’t stand in random lines is starting to be the theme of this retelling I guess?
Also, for first-time visitors, it would be also a great thing to remember not to spend too much time on the upper floor, because on your way out of the museum you will find the Caravaggios for example, and you should have ample time left for those as well, because that is also a once in a lifetime kind of experience.
Seeing the Boboli Gardens and exploring the Pitti Palace
When my friend heard that every museum was free on Sunday, she wanted to see everything but I had to explain to her that she should choose 1, maximum 2 options if she didn’t want to get treated for exhaustion the next day. So, to my biggest delight, she chose the Boboli Gardens and the Pitti Palace, which are interlinked.
The Boboli Gardens, is one of the finest examples of Italian Renaissance gardens in the world. Originally designed for the Medici family in the 16th century, the gardens are a harmonious blend of architecture, sculpture, and nature. As we wandered through the labyrinthine pathways of Boboli Gardens, we encountered a wealth of treasures at every turn. From ancient statues and ornate fountains to hidden grottos and secret gardens, there was always something new to discover. My biggest and most appreciated discovery was the Café located between the entrance to the Pitti Palace and The Boboli Gardens. Here, we had the chance to rest our legs after going uphill and downhill for hours and also had a creamy cup of cappuccino, which was a great pleasure as much for our bodies as it was for our souls. Oh, and a pro tip for visiting the Pitti Palace: don’t use the restrooms located on the ground floor, you will be standing in line for ages. Go upstairs, and see the exhibitions, and you will discover a restroom, with no line of people standing in front of it, at every single exhibition.
Anyway, as we stepped into the opulent halls of Pitti Palace, we were instantly transported back in time to the era of grandeur and elegance. We marveled at the intricate frescoes adorning the ceilings, admired the exquisite sculptures lining the corridors, and lost ourselves in the beauty of the paintings by masters such as Raphael, Titian, and Rubens.
One of the highlights of the Pitti Palace is the Palatine Gallery, home to a stunning array of Renaissance art. We took our time to wander through the gallery's sumptuously decorated rooms, each more breathtaking than the last and we also visited the Royal Apartments, where we could glimpse into the lavish lifestyle of the Medici rulers.
A relaxing day in Certaldo, the town of Bocaccio
I have always been a big fan of Bocaccio. The Decameron is one of my favorite pieces of medieval literature and after spending two crazy days in Florence, full of people, we felt like a day spent in the hometown of a writer who told the story of people hiding away from the black death felt somehow…fitting.
Nestled in the heart of Tuscany, Certaldo is a hidden gem waiting to be explored. With its medieval charm, picturesque streets, and rich history, this enchanting town offers a glimpse into the timeless beauty of rural Italy. You can easily get here from Florence, just by going to the Santa Maria Novella train station and getting a train ticket using one of the ticket machines. The train ride only takes an hour and 20 minutes, and it transports you deeper into the heart of Tuscany.
Our day in Certaldo began with a leisurely stroll through the historic center, where we found ourselves transported back in time. The cobblestone streets, lined with ancient stone buildings adorned with colorful flowers, exuded an air of romance and nostalgia. We wandered through the winding alleys, admiring the well-preserved architecture and soaking in the peaceful ambiance of this medieval town.
One of the highlights of our visit was a ride on the funicular, a quaint and charming mode of transportation that connects the lower town of Certaldo with the hilltop village of Certaldo Alto. As we ascended to the top of the hill, we were treated to panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, dotted with vineyards, olive groves, and rolling hills as far as the eye could see.
Upon reaching Certaldo Alto, we found ourselves immersed in a world of ancient charm and historical significance. The cobbled streets, lined with artisan shops, cafes, and trattorias, invited us to explore at our own pace. We visited the Palazzo Pretorio, a medieval palace adorned with frescoes and ornate decorations, and the Church of Saints Jacopo and Filippo, with its striking bell tower that dominates the skyline.
After a morning of exploration, we stopped for lunch at a traditional trattoria, where we savored authentic Tuscan dishes made with locally sourced ingredients. I kept it simple and got a wonderful Tuscan Pappa al Pomodoro (Tomato and Bread Soup) while my friend got herself a hot bowl of Minestrone because you can never go wrong with that!
A Day by the Sea in Viareggio
After immersing ourselves in the medieval charm of Certaldo, we decided to embrace the coastal allure of Viareggio, a vibrant seaside town nestled along the Tuscan coast. With its sandy beaches, bustling promenade, and lively atmosphere, Viareggio promised a day of sun, sea, and relaxation.
Upon arriving in Viareggio, we made a beeline for its famous beachfront, where miles of golden sand stretched out before us, beckoning us to unwind. The weather was not the best, and you could sense that the beach and holiday season hadn’t started yet, but that is how we preferred it to be honest. The whole beach was our playground, we even had a small picnic and from time to time we slipped away for a fresh cup of coffee to a nearby Café.
After a morning of seaside bliss, we ventured into the heart of Viareggio to explore its charming promenade, lined with colorful beachfront cafes, gelaterias, and seafood restaurants. We couldn't resist indulging in a scoop of creamy gelato and sipping on a refreshing Negroni as we watched the world go by.
For lunch, we treated ourselves to a feast of fresh seafood at a seaside trattoria, where we savored platters of grilled fish and crispy calamari, all paired with chilled glasses of local white wine. It was a culinary delight, made even more enjoyable by the stunning sea views that accompanied our meal.
Negroni & Negroni Spagliato - The cocktail of Firenze
This segment is an ode to Negroni. No visit to Florence would be complete without indulging in its vibrant cocktail scene, and at the heart of it lies the iconic Negroni and its delightful variation, the Negroni Sbagliato. As we wandered through the charming streets of Florence, we couldn't resist immersing ourselves in the rich history and culture behind these beloved cocktails.
The Negroni, with its perfect blend of gin, Campari, and sweet vermouth, is a true classic that embodies the spirit of Florence. Legend has it that the cocktail was invented in the city in the early 20th century when Count Camillo Negroni requested a stronger version of his favorite Americano cocktail at the iconic Caffè Casoni. The bartender, in a stroke of genius, replaced the soda water with gin, and thus, the Negroni was born.
As we sipped on this timeless concoction, we couldn't help but marvel at its bold flavors and elegant simplicity. Each sip was a journey through the city's rich culinary heritage, a testament to the creativity and innovation that Florence is renowned for.
But the Negroni isn't the only star of Florence's cocktail scene – there's also the Negroni Sbagliato, a delightful twist on the classic recipe. Legend has it that the Negroni Sbagliato was created by accident at Bar Basso in Milan, when a bartender mistakenly added prosecco instead of gin to a Negroni. The result was a refreshing and effervescent cocktail that quickly became a favorite among patrons.
So cheers to happy accidents, great cocktails, and short but sweet long-weekend city breaks!
